Happy New Year. Here's to 2012!

Okay, this post is my third attempt on this retched iPad... Not a good start this morning.

Any way, Happy New Year to you all! I hope you had a lovely Christmas and New Year? We spent it with family, although both Ian and I really weren't very well. Everyone has a cold or nasty cough at the moment, mind you it's so mild (12 degrees yesterday!) there's no wonder.

I have really enjoyed reading everyone's end of year rounds ups and reviews, and it's spurred me on to make a plan fo 2012. A realistic, manageable plan. Non of this shirt or jacket a month, or 10 items to mix and match. Just my own, nice simple plan. After all I sew to relax and want to be able to enjoy the process.

Step one of the 2012 plan is sew from the stash whenever possible. I have an shameful amount of fabric that needs to be used, donated to charity or just given away, so I will be working through 2 boxes per month - look out for some giveaways!

So here is January's plan:
1. Finish current shirt working toile
2. Make black work skirt
3. Make black work shirt
4. A simple knit top - this depends if there is a place left a Gill Arnold's class running on the 14th
5. Jeans. A real challenge so I'm signed up for the Pattern Review class stating 19th and one which will carry over to February.

Sounds a lot I know, but my TNT skirt pattern really doesn't take me long and my shirt making skills have improved now I have cracked the bust fitting issues (simple, buy the patterns for C and D cup sizes - doh!!)

I also intend to stop using the ipad to blog as i just can't add any pictures and a sewing blog with no pictures would be very dull indeed!

What are your sewing plans for this year?

Bloomin' patterns...... and a back up plan

Still no joy getting the McCalls pattern.  It was ordered last Friday for first class delivery next working day - is a week pushing it to be classed as next working day?!

So I need a Christmas party wear back up plan:

This arrived on Monday! Yay!!!  A lovely book which everyone is blogging about at the moment.  Very simple styles and easy makes. 

So, this is the back up plan:



In soft navy blue satin




In navy lace.

 I'll leave it to the weekend before I get the scissors out!!

Moral to this tale - a girl always needs a back up plan

Vogue 7910

Also entitled - Oh Vogue 7910 let me count the ways I love thee....

Okay, I don't often gush about patterns, but this one is very, very good.  I made view C from an embroidered red linen from the stash.

View C is a-line, has pockets (I don't usually do pockets in skirts/trousers), a faced waistband, is unlined and has a lot of topstitching.  Following the sizing on the pattern envelope I cut a size 16.  I did read the pattern instructions but didn't need to follow them, with the exception of the pockets because I wasn't sure if they were attached to the seams, or left free (they are attached).

The only alteration I made was to pipe the top of the pockets and use an alternative fabric for the pocket insides and waist facing.  I also used bias binding to finish the facing and hem.  Stupidly I didn't tissue fit, or make a toile which didn't dawn on me until I had cut out all the pieces - so no 1" side seams for me on this one!  Fortunately I didn't need to worry, this pattern fit me right out of the packet with a minor tweek to the waist at the side seams, I had to take in about an inch on each side.

The other thing to mention about this pattern is the speed of which it comes together, honestly, even with all my additional understitching, zig zaging  and topstitching it took me around 5 hours from start to finish.  I'm also happy with my lapped zip.  I haven't done one for years and this one worked out beautifully, I used my own method for the insertion which I'll share with you another day.  I still have black thread in the overlocker so finished the seams with zig zag and pinking sheers.  Only problem was one spool of thread wasn't enough!

So what with Vogue 1170 and this one I've realised that a size 16 is a perfect fit for my bottom half - so long as it isn't a straight skirt pattern, I still have to tweek those around my thunder thighs....

Anyway, here it is.  On a hanger for now beacuse I'm in the middle of cooking Sunday lunch!

Working out the piping, and pocket lining



Looking good lapped zip! 
Although it does look a bit wonky on the hanger, it is all nice and straight once on



Pocket lining, piping and waist facing in rose print cotton

 I made it to go with this top, which is a short sleeve version of New Look 6892, and which I made last Thursday evening.

Another VERY dodgy self portrait!!

Enjoy the rest of your Sunday - we're just about to tuck into roast chicken....

Another Skirt... Or is it?

Also entitled "An Interview with myself" or "An unsatisfactory day".

Me:  Hello, what have you been up to day?
PinQueen: Sewing
Me: Oh, that's nice, all day?
PinQueen: Yes
Me:  Can we have a look at what you've been doing?
PinQueen:  Ok
Me: (She's a bit grumpy...) Thank you very much

Me:  Oh, that's erm, interesting
PinQueen:  It's inside out
Me: Oh, yes, can we see it the right way around?
PinQueen: Ok.  I have to say I'm not on good form today.  I feel as though it's been a wasted day.

Ok, this doesn't look too bad.....

Me: Ah, erm I sort of see why.  What happened?
PinQueen:  Well I got off to a good start and then it went down hill.  I wanted to make a twisted, or bubble skirt, couldn't quite decide which and plowed on anyway.  The fabric I used is from my stash and is a soft silk crepe. I interlined the yoke with white lining fabric (why, oh why?  I should have used cotton lawn) and used the same for the skirt lining.  I didn't have enough left so lined the yoke with some green bremsilk (I thought it novel at the time).  Then it really went downhill - rapidly....
I cut the skirt length 10cms too short and as I'm a lady over a certain age, I need to cover my knees - so I added a strip to the bottom.  After stitching the lining and skirt pieces together I then twisted, pinned in place and tried on - Oh my goodness - what a sight!  I gave up on that idea quickly and went down the bubble route.
Because I knew I'd boobed big time on this skirt I didn't enjoy the sewing process at all and can't believe it has taken me all day.  You name it, I did it wrong on this one.  Also, I can't imagine ever wearing it.  What a waste of lovely silk, time and effort.....

Me:  Never mind, it could be worse.
PinQueen:  Suppose (sulk, grump, sulk)
Me:  Pass the gin.....

So, tomorrow's another day.  A day to plan my next project properly and to take a look at the brown linen skirt that I wish I had done today.

Hope your day has been better!

PS  On a happier note here's a very blurry photo of my new top and the Burda skirt I mentioned here

Vogue 1170 - A Keeper!

Well, I just don't know what made me buy this pattern because when I pulled it out of the pattern stash yesterday I thought "Oh dear, another one that will never get used".  That skirt is WAY too short and the blouse is a bit "odd" to my eye, and being blessed in the chest dept means all that fabric in the knot/twist area will draw even more attention to that area!

But, I did like the shape of the skirt which I had a feeling would be geat for my pear-shape.  SO  I set about with extra tissue paper and lengthened it by 17cms (very precice!) and re-drafted the hem facing.  Having checked the finished measurements I decided to cut a 16 and work on a toile.  I had some purple poly crepe which I knew would drape beautifully, but was never very sure what inspired me to purchase purple in the first place....

Want to see the results?  Here they are, but be warned, the skirt is on Vivienne who's a size 10 so it's pinned at the waist and hangs a little oddly, it doesn't look like that on me.  Oh, and in my excititement to share a skirt pattern that fits, I haven't hemmed it or finished the waistband yet ( I usually do for a toile, honestly!)....

Vogue 1170   Tracey Reese
Or "That skirt is so short, one gust of wind and you'll see her knickers"

Front skirt with square set yoke front seams

Side view - look at that lovely drape

Back view - the yoke falls just in the right place on my body
and is extremely flattering for a pear-shape



I always use 1" seam allowance at the back so I have a little more fabric
to work with when inserting the zip.  I won't add the extra next time because, as
you can see, I ended up taking in approx 2" on the back seam



Conclusion?   This pattern is a keeper!  I am head over heels with it, Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter I will definitley be making this one again, probably alot...  Crepe backed satins, wool crepe, linen, lawn, denim....

Now, I need to fit it into my Spring / Summer wardrobe planned colours (yes, I have a plan!)

Future alterations - trim pattern piece to 15cms as 17cms is just a tad too long and re-draft the hem facing (again)  Don't worry about the additional 1" seam allowance for the zip, and a small sway back tuck.

Did I mention I love this pattern?!  What a great way to start the week, hope you have a good start to yours.

Finally, something for me, finished and wearable!

It's lovely when an outfit comes together!  I'll be wearing this with blue peep-toe shoes and a white t-shirt or vest

Pinned onto display model - at least it's a photo at last!

White linen. lined and edged casual jacket

Pink grosgrain ribbon used to stabilise the waist edge and back bow to
hide hook and eye - and trimmed with tiny glass beads.  Just because....



These have to be the best covered snaps I've ever done

Stats:  Own drafted pattern for pencil skirt.  I put in a kick pleat at the back rather than a split for a change.  Navy spotty cotton lined in black (all I had to hand) and trimmed with black lace - sew on with pink thread for cheekyness!  Concealed zip all topped off with the bright pink grosgrain ribbon for a splash of colour.

Jacket pattern is Vogue 8717.  I would typically cut a size 12 but having looked carefully at the finished measurements decided to go with a 10.  I did tissue fit and decided to make a toile as well - I didn't want anymore hiccups this week!  No other alterations were made.  Using white linen and a white poly lining I trimmed the outside edge and sleeves with flattened bias binding folded in half (I didn't want to make it into piping). I err'd on the edge of caution with this one.  I really wanted to add a navy and pink edging to match the skirt but decided against it - I'll want to wear it with other things so better to keep it plain.  I'm loving my covered snaps, they sit so well.

I'm delighted with this outfit and am spurred on to make something else before Ian gets home!  I could wear this to the wedding at the end of the month - but think my invitation is lost in the post......

On another note, I saw this whilst looking for the above pattern picture - this is on my hit list for the summer, I've fallen head over heels for this Kay Unger dress.

Isn't it gorgeous?!  I'm seeing myself in this in an ice blue, or soft charcoal grey....and approx 7lbs lighter

Oh - I wonder if I could squeeze it out of that white and green print I bought last week at the show?!

So many pattern, so little time, sigh.....

Dreadful photo's and Good News

Good News:  Sew Today have extended their offer until Sunday  - yay!

Dreadful Photos:  2 of me in recent skirts.  First the grey pinstripe discussed here and second the black work skirt discussed here - not so yay.... 

Constipated Duck impression - trying not to get frustrated with
Mum as she tries to push the button of a modern-fangled digital
camerathingermejig- Mum just push a button like the camera you have, except
there's no film it and no, I don't have to send the whole camera away to get
the pictures out - I love my Mum

""If I have to take a photo, it'll have to be now"
Thank you darling, you caught me at my best - did I mention I
need to get my hair done?

Having seen these two pictures I realise how much weight I have put on since moving to Wiltshire.  "Contentment" is what my lovely friends call it - I don't mix my words and call it fat.

Must dash, have patterns to buy and gym membership to sign!  Pass the crisps love....

Have a lovely weekend all - happy sewing!

Next!

I'm just about to cut the pattern pieces for a BurdaStyle skirt from September 2010 Style 106, view B.  It's not a difficult pattern.  I like the lines and have an idea for the top stitching.

As I want to make "outfits" this year (I make too many separates from fabrics I love and then nothing really goes together!) I will also make this McCalls blouse - I've had the pattern a couple of years and have run out of excuses not to make it.  I'll be making the blue version.  I particularly like the fact that this pattern has pieces for varying cup sizes.

And here are the fabrics I will be using.  It sticks in my throat to say it, but they came from Hansons - the shop with bad customer service.  The green is 100% wool soft tweed to be lined in pink and the batik print is 100% cotton, just going through the washing machine at the moment.

Photographing on Mum's pale green carpet!

As ever with Burda I'll have to make a toile, but with McCalls I will tissue fit.  If I have any concerns at that stage, that's when I may make a toile for a pattern I haven't used before.

Posts to follow!  Enjoy your day.

PS  Purple Coat is still in the box....  It hasn't moved since coming back from Mums.  I am suitably embarrassed.

Burda 103 2/11 Done The "Susan Skirt"

Just finished the above, which I am going to call the "Susan Skirt".  I made it from a dark coloured denim with a crosswise stretch (you defininately need it for this pattern!), didn't line it, overlocked all seams and top stitched with bright pink topstitch thread as I will be making a t-shirt in the same colour.

Here's a few pictures.  as ever I have to wait for Ian to take a photo of me actually wearing it, perhaps this evening as I intend to wear it when we go out for Tapas.

I cut a size 40 but as it looked so small I allowed 1" side seams.  As it happened I did need a little extra, but not quite the full amount.  It's a tad long for my liking but looks good with high heeled boots.

Top Stitching the back darts

Back finished and top stitched - the stitching does all match, honestly!  It's not
easy to photograph that godet - it's bigger than you think....

Front waistband and darts all top stitched

I wouldn't change anything about the Susan Skirt - it's a keeper.  Someone questioned whether you' would be able to run for a bus in it - I'm not convinced you'd be able to do it in a lady-like fashion wearing this one!

If you are unsure about making it I say go for it!  I'm a pear-shape so I didn't hold high hopes for the style on me, but it is increadibly flattering.

In total this skirt cost me £7.50.  The fabric and pink thread had to be purchased, everything else came from the stash.

PS  Purple coat isn't forgotten, I just can't get myself motivated with it.....

Next project

I've had this pattern for a number of years and made it up once to wear to work as my (then) job as a PA.  I need another smart black skirt so made a start on it today



Butterick 4859

 I will be making the plain version using a lovely fine black wool from the stash.  I could kick myself because once I started to cut it out, I remembered I wanted to use this fabric to make my shift dress with a trim idea I read in Threads magazine last year - oh well, too late now!

1.5m bought from Leeds Market about 2 years ago for £15

It's quite an easy design to put together, so no new techniques on this one.  I'll let you know how I get on in a few days.

In the meantime I changed my mind on the pattern I'll be using for the Shirt Sew-Along and have opted for the recommended pattern which I bought online this morning from Leah at http://www.sewbox.co.uk/.  I have a lovely white 200 thread-count cotton ready and waiting.

We had a good night last night and I managed to nag pursuade Ian to take a photo of me in my knit dress



NOT a good picture of me, I think I was giving Ian orders on which button to press?!

 And Finally...  This is what I found when I got home - warning, if you are of a nervous disposition, look away now, I nearly died of laughter, then annoyance for my poor sheets:



Jack took himself off to bed last night.  Honestly - he had tucked himself in and everything!

That's all for now.  Enjoy the rest of your Sunday evening.

Grey Pinstripe Skirt and Waspie - Done!

In traditional Pin Queen style, I have NO photo of me actually wearing the garments - I'm still nagging waiting for Ian to take the pictures (it's only a case of pressing a button darling!).

In the meantime here's a couple of views of work in progress:


It looks like a normal side seam...



But there's a surprise!

I used a slotted seam to achieve this look.  The technique is very simple and gives a lovely result (think crepe trousers with satin trim etc...)  Set your sewing machine to a longer stitch length - I used 3.5 on my Janome.  Once the side seam is sewn, meld stitches.  Take a seam ripper and cut every 5th stitch, then press your seam open as usual.  Next, you need to lay your trim over the seam allowances as follows:



Oh look, my nails match!

If you have a walking foot, it's a good idea to use it as the next step is to stitch the trim to just the seam allowances, work from the top down on both sides in case there is any movement - I had a small amount. You can decide how far apart you want the stitches to be, mine were around 1.5cm as I want the trim to be really visible when I walk.

Oops, my trim moved as I sewed it, but at least it's on the inside!

Press the seam/trim and now the fun bit - remove the original seam stitches - the ripping of every 5th stitch makes this process a little easier.

I love putting in concealed zips:

Here's a quick view of the inside - a lovely bright green!

Here are a couple of pictures of the waspie in progress.  I used a soft coutil for the backing as it's one of my favorite fabrics.  I use it all the time for my corsets too.

As you can see, I sewed the side seams wrong sides together so I could put my casings on the outside.  As I don't want this to be tight fitting I used plastic whalebone rather than spirals for support.

I cut my casings so the stripes were horizontal, just so they stood out and I've stitched them down with green thread.  The closing is an open-ended zip (I didn't want to use a busk) and I've trimmed it with the green lace used on the skirt lining.

I'm delighted with the results!  Photo's to follow.  Perhaps I should just have an end of month fashion show?!

Now I'm working on this - and it's nearly finished!

Have a good week!

Knitted Top, Straight Skirt and Waspie

The knit top was a success!  Aren't they easy to do?  I didn't bother setting up the overlocker because I was convinced I'd never actually finish it!  I used a small stretch zigzag for seams and twin needle to hem which worked perfectly well, but would definately use the overlocker next time.  I have no photographer today, so photos to follow (probably at the weekend).

I'm sewing from the stash this month.....  Next on my to do list is a straight skirt and waspie; I'll be using the fabrics below, plus notations from the stash.  The wool is dark grey with a chalk stripe, the lining and lace are an acid green colour (didn't photgraph too well late last night) and the grosgrain ribbon ties the project together.  I'll be using a technique I haven't used for a while (Slotted Seams) and am looking forward to making this one! I'll post on the technique later tomorrow.

The skirt is a self-drafted pattern, as is the waspie.  You've seen the waspie here

 

before, but the pinstripe one won't be so elaborate.

Have a good day!



Red Skirt - Done. Vogue Dress still underway....

I'm having a lovely holiday!  So far I have finished my red needlecord skirt; here's the pattern I used, late 1960's used umpteen times.  But everytime I use it I over allow on seam allowances so had to take the sides in another inch this morning.... I'll get Ian to take a photo of me wearing it when he's back (Germany again!)

I decided to re-do the Vogue dress bands today - I just didn't like them.  The issue really was the fabric so I re cut the pieces - top sections in satin, bottom sections in white 100% cotton.  They are fiddly to do rather than difficult and having 100% polyester satin didn't make the pressing very crisp.  Also, I didn't like the way the instructions would have you put them together so I used the same technique as you would for the shoulders of a lined, sleeveless shift dress and that was much better:

I managed to squeeze in some sewcation shopping early this morning and bought the wincyette and cotton for the PJs.  Whilst I was there I also got some jersey to make another pair - plain lilac marl for the top and lilac stripe for the bottoms, plus some fleece to make a cardi (I don't want another dressing gown) all on affer at £3.69/m  The photo's don't do the colours any justice, but you get the idea.  I also got a small amount of white muslin to make some lavender bags and some pink netting to finish a petticoat that will go into the window display when I do them in a couple of weeks.

When I got back from shopping a package was waiting for me.  I put a bid in on e-bay for these books and won at £4.99!  All I can say is it's a good job I'm on holiday this week...