Fuss-free fusing

Fusing can be troublesome, particularly if you have a lot to do and haven't got the luxury of a pressing table for block fusing.  Here's how I coped with fusing interfacing to the linen of my Vogue 8620 Jacket.

1 Be patient!  It can't be rushed. It took me about 3 hours over 2 days preparing my pieces

2 I use 2 pressing cloths made from an old white cotton sheet which I have marked "this side up" on all pieces.  I lay one over the ironing board (I have a nice wide one) to protect it from any sticky residue and use the other to cover the pieces I'm fusing

3  Press the fabric so it's wrinkle-free being careful not to move it off grain.  Lay the interfacing over your fabric - glue side down (ha, made that mistake once and wrote off a new iron!)  On a piece as big as this I place a few pins right through the fabric and ironing board.

4  Cover with second pressing cloth (this side up) and press.  I use a hot iron without steam as my pressing cloth is 100% cotton and I press from the centre out, leaving the iron in place for about 5 to 8 seconds.   Pressing - no ironing!

5  Remove press cloth once cool and trim away an stray pieces of interfacing.

6  Place your pattern pieces back onto the fused fabric in readiness for tailors tacks / marking

Marking up next and then ready to sew.  In the meantime I'm really looking forward to the Jubilee weekend - lots of lovely traditional afternoon tea, great celebrations at home and in London plus an extra sewing day!

More later.

Vogue 8620

Also entitled - where have you been?!

Sorry it's been a while.  I have been sewing, just not blogging - no excuses, life just gets in the way sometimes and I really have not got to grips with my ipad for anything other than listening to music and reading sewing blogs.

So here is my sewing related post of the year.  As I've mainly been sewing work clothes I wanted to make something completely different and, unusually for me, not tailored.  It's Vogue 8620 a Marcy Tilton Jacket. 

 I am using a denim cloured linen with a flowery cotton print for the binding and a chunky contrast zip.  The white interfacing to the right of the photo is to prevent the linen from creasing - as far as possible.  I've used this a lot recently, including a raw silk skirt I wear on a regular basis to work - It really works a treat and doesn't alter the weight or feel of the outer fabric.

Yesterday, in 28 degrees, (that's HOT for the UK) I began cutting and fusing the interfacing.  After around an hour I gave up - it was way too hot in the sewing room.  I had to cool down outside with a medicinal G&T!

Not much further progress this evening - I've been blogging!

And on a parting note, here is a picture of a creative genius and a gentleman.

RIP

Back soon!

Simplicity 2424 - another go at knit!

I can't let it beat me, I just can't!  So here we go again...  This time with a double knit, which I find easier to work with. 

I made the red cardigan

Before Betty came to the rescue, I used Jennifer to make this, and boy did we struggle.  She really does not like knit.  Skipped stitches, blah, blah, blah.  Thank goodness this was a simple cardigan to make so we got through it in the end!

I cut a size 14, made a small sway back adjustment and added my usual 1" to the sleeve upper arm.  I didn't worry about doing any other alterations - it's a cardigan for goodness sake!  I did use some stay tape at the shoulder, but other than that it's just front, back, band and sleeves. 

It was super easy to make and looks great with Butterick 5147!

Watch this space - there's more to come.  I set myself a goal yesterday, and have almost succeeded!

Happy Monday everyone!

Vogue 1099 - Casual Chic

A casually chic jacket to go with jeans, or shift dress.

I've had this pattern for just over a year, and bought the fabric last summer (Cloth of Gold, Wootton Bassett).  I used 100% cream linen and a poly cream lining along with a poly organza.  I wanted to use a silk organza really but it's not that easy to find locally and I didn't want to buy on line as the pattern only calls for a small measurement.

I haven't tackled the trousers as yet.  I think they may suit me but not with this jacket because I'll look square and "dumpy".  They would look better with the white linen jacket as that has a slimmer shape.

Anyhoo, here's the results:

I shortened the body of the pattern by about 1" because the hem fell at my widest point, I couldn't really shorten it any further.

I really, really like the bias collar with the organza ruffle.  Sadly with the amount of pressing that has to be done I did catch the ruffle with the iron so it is a little flatter than I would prefer.

The sleeves are lovely.  There are 5 rows of gathers, a top sleeve that hangs over and they are quite full.  I also particularly like the way the sleeves are set in, but it was important to transfer all the pattern markings otherwise they could be a pain.

Surprisingly I cut a 10!  Having read the finished measurements I was sure the 12 would have been too big.  I didn't make a toile, but I did tissue fit - carefully!  I'm not sure I would make it again, just because it is so distinctive.

So, what's next on the list?  The fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics hasn't arrived as yet, so it won't be the green print skirt.  I may make the brown linen I bought at the show into a shift dress, or a pencil skirt and fitted top (a bit boring, but no doubt I can jazz it up with some trim!) If I make up the brown linen this jacket will go with it nicely, so that will be one more outfit for my depleted wardrobe.....

Finally, something for me, finished and wearable!

It's lovely when an outfit comes together!  I'll be wearing this with blue peep-toe shoes and a white t-shirt or vest

Pinned onto display model - at least it's a photo at last!

White linen. lined and edged casual jacket

Pink grosgrain ribbon used to stabilise the waist edge and back bow to
hide hook and eye - and trimmed with tiny glass beads.  Just because....



These have to be the best covered snaps I've ever done

Stats:  Own drafted pattern for pencil skirt.  I put in a kick pleat at the back rather than a split for a change.  Navy spotty cotton lined in black (all I had to hand) and trimmed with black lace - sew on with pink thread for cheekyness!  Concealed zip all topped off with the bright pink grosgrain ribbon for a splash of colour.

Jacket pattern is Vogue 8717.  I would typically cut a size 12 but having looked carefully at the finished measurements decided to go with a 10.  I did tissue fit and decided to make a toile as well - I didn't want anymore hiccups this week!  No other alterations were made.  Using white linen and a white poly lining I trimmed the outside edge and sleeves with flattened bias binding folded in half (I didn't want to make it into piping). I err'd on the edge of caution with this one.  I really wanted to add a navy and pink edging to match the skirt but decided against it - I'll want to wear it with other things so better to keep it plain.  I'm loving my covered snaps, they sit so well.

I'm delighted with this outfit and am spurred on to make something else before Ian gets home!  I could wear this to the wedding at the end of the month - but think my invitation is lost in the post......

On another note, I saw this whilst looking for the above pattern picture - this is on my hit list for the summer, I've fallen head over heels for this Kay Unger dress.

Isn't it gorgeous?!  I'm seeing myself in this in an ice blue, or soft charcoal grey....and approx 7lbs lighter

Oh - I wonder if I could squeeze it out of that white and green print I bought last week at the show?!

So many pattern, so little time, sigh.....

Fleece Jacket Done (and domestic goddess)

Sorry about the rubbish photo, but I'm acutely aware there are no photographs of me actually wearing anything I've made!  Here's the Fleece jacket, it's warm, snugly and a pretty colour too. 
I decided not to use the loop/button closure and go for a belt instead but having worn it I definitely need a couple of hooks and eyes at the top.  It was dead simple to make and fleece is easy to work with.  I cut a 10 front and 12 back - don't know what I was thinking as I should have cut a 10 back and 12 front, but I can get away with the "extra" at the back because of the styling with the belt.  I didn't need to follow the instructions however I always have a quick read through just in case.  A walking foot was essential for this project and I won't use Coats thread again! (You can see another set of PJ's in this photo)

I've also been thinking about Christmas party dresses (I need want 2 this year) - more later; brain spinning with ideas.  I don't know about you, but I tend to see a fabric and an idea grows from that.  Plus I've been busy on ebay and etsy looking for vintage patterns again, will let you know how I get on with some of my bids.

Domestic Goddess:  Pin Queen makes bread!  Well, okay someone gave me a bread machine and I bought a ready-mix pack, chucked in some water, pressed a few buttons and 1hour 55mins later this was the result:

It's sun dried tomato and I've just had a slice toasted, buttered and a hot cup of tea - delicious!