Christmas sewing - all for me!!!

I need want a new party dress for Christmas.  I've been a very good girl this year and deserve it - honestly I have.....

I'm thinking of keeping it simple.  The last few years I have dressed up and felt overdressed, and out of place.  So this year, "simple" is my way forward.

So, this is what I will be making:  McCalls M6460.  Simple and elegant!

I will make view D.  I like the fact it will cover my knees, and cover the top of my arms.  I'm thinking black, I'm thinking satin, I'm thinking lace - I'm thinking it will be what ever bloomin' colour I find for the lace will be a starting point.  It's just so difficult to get nice fabrics locally.

I particularly like the fact that this pattern comes in  a multi-cup size too.  I have just made two shirts (yes, two!) which I will blog about later.  It was a McCalls pattern I used and I went for a D cup and then I tried a C cup.  Both fit well, one just a tad closer than the other.

Anyone else tried this pattern yet?  What are your party wear plans?

Feeling better, and feeling inspired

I'm feeling so much better this week and having spent some time looking around blogland, and looking at the new Autumn / Winter patterns, I came across this dress from McCalls

McCalls 6395

Although my first love isn't knit fabric, I do enjoy working with double knit which this pattern will be perfect for.

So I've hunted down some double knit in Chocolate Brown, Navy, Red and Cerise.  I'm thinking of making the Muse Dress http://reveleigh.blogspot.com/2011/01/butterick-5522-done.html again in red with cerise inserts (colour blocking?!) and would like to make view B above in Navy with red zips and trim, although I will need to lengthen it - 40+ knees and all that!

I'm will work on the coat this weekend as its turned very chilly and had me reaching for the de-icer and scraper yesterday morning!

Have a lovely weekend all

New Look 6968 progress

Well, there is some progress....

Here's where I am with the toile



Nice pose!

What a great fit this pattern is.  My toile fit well although as you can see, I had to pinch out quite a bit from the arm to the top of the hip.  Oddly, I had to pinch out more on my rightside than I did my left. I think this is more to do with recent weight loss - which I really don't mind!  Notice the "round" tummy look has almost gone - yay! 

yes, I have black knickers on.....

  I will be picking the Sunday Giveaway later this evening, so stay tunned for the winner.  It will be names out of a hat as I have no idea how to use the random generator.  What with my dress, new job and a wedding dress to finish I haven't time to work it out.  Maybe for the next one!

And finally....

4th July saw my Sister turn 40 and 1st August saw my Mum turn 70.  So there's been a fair bit of eating, drinking and celebrating.

Here Mum wanted to take just her girls out for lunch.  We went to Raymond Blancs bistro in the centre of Bristol and it was lovely.  The food was REALLY good and service was great.  It has a lovely relaxed feeling and considerig it was lunchtime there was no rush.  I think we were there for around 3 hours.  We shared a half bottle of champagne and had a glass of wine each with our meal.  Mum settled the bill when we left so I'm not sure how pricey it was/was not, but whatever, it was worth it.  We had a lovely time.

don't I look like Mum?!

And here we are celebrating at home with a bbq, more champagne, beer, wine and cake.  We were fortunate with the weather as it rained heavily in the morning but cheered up perfectly for the afternoon.  The boys were with us, but camera shy!

Oy, mister.  Get off my snoozing chair.....

Ah, don't you just love family....

New Look 6968 - something on the go at last!

Well, aside from clothes for Sally and the liquorice allsorts top there's been no sewing for me.  I am working on a wedding dress that's due early September and am at a standstill until the next fitting tomorrow evening so today I started work on New Look 6968 for me.

I'm working on view D, collar and sleeves included.  Having seen Kirsty's version and reading how well she found it went together I though I should give this pattern a chance too.  So far I have cut and fitted the tissue and am really pleased with the fit. It will be made up in some cotton "tweed look" fabric I purchased from Fabricland a few weeks ago.

I cut a size 12 top, graded out to a 14 at the waist.  The sleeves are cut to a 14 and the skirt section is a 14 graded to a 16 at the thighs to assist with fit over my pear shape.  I also had to take the back in approx 1.5cms  from the neck to the waist.  I used the size 14 bust dart and lowered the top of the waist dart by approx 1.5cms to accommodate fit around my bust.  So far it looks to be a super fit and shape (plus I've lost approx 9lbs over the last 6 weeks so clothes and patterns are fitting again - the lumps and bumps around my tummy, hips and thighs are smoothing out!)

Photos of alterations and fabric to follow, I was in a rush today. 

I'm reviewing my wardrobe (again) for Autumn as I have just been offered a PA role for a great company based in Swindon.  It's a 3 month contract initially with a view to permanent.  At the moment I have a lot of joggers, flip flops and summer skirts in the wardrobe - not suitable for the office environment.  I did have to buy a suit for my interviews as I just wasn't organised enough to make one in time.  But the offer has given me a reason to sew the clothes I love, smart and fitted so Betty will be busy over the next couple of weeks!

More to follow on the dress over the week. 

McCalls M2600

Also entitled:  "I don't do knit"

What can I say?  I did NOT enjoy the sewing process on this pattern.  Nothing wrong with the pattern at all, a lovely simple dress, no great shaping just a little gathering at the neckline and wonderfully quick and easy to make up.

I cut a 10 and garded to a 14 at the hip "just in case".  I could have left the side seams as a 12 as there is plenty of room in this tent dress.  IF I make it again I will add a couple of inches to the hem too.

I used a ballpoint needle and stretch stitch on my machine.  Yes, the overlocker still has black thread in it - how lazy am I?!  

Everything came from my stash, the fabric being a recent purchase from Ann at Gorgeous Fabrics.

Here it is during construction.  Neck and sleeve bands are not finished and I won't be wearing it with a black belt - I need to purchase a cream one:

Note to self:  MUST wear correct bra as it's a bit "hello boys" with the gathering at the neckline



enough room for two in that skirt!

 And here are the shoes I purchased to go with, including new nail varnish on my troll feet:

To be honest I don't think I will make this dress again.  The gathering around the neckline doesn't suit my bust at all and makes it look even bigger.  I'm having a love/hate relationship with this dress.  I didn't enjoy sewing the fabric and it's a bit short; however it is so light and comfortable... perhaps it will get shortened to a tunic or top at a later stage?

Oh, want to know Ian's reaction to the "in progress" dress?  "Very nice darling.  You need some false tan" No Ian, I need a holiday, ha, ha!!

Because I had purchased the shoes I wanted to be able to wear them with other things and had just purchased this fabric (honestly, before "shopping from the stash" was announced!)

another stetch - I need the practice!



Coral stretch Demin.  I may make another Susan Skirt


On another note.  I'm sorry if you have left a comment recently and now can't see it.  As most of you know Blogger was down for around 24 hours and since it's back  I have noticed comments have been removed (not by me, and not because of any dodgy content!).

Have a good week all!

Butterick 4443. Part 4 and Done!

Phew, this dress is finished.  It took longer than anticipated due to Easter, London, Wedding, BBQs and life in general!
Okay, so where did we get to?  Oh yes, the corselette was finished and so was the dress and the lining.  The three sections just needed to come together.

Here's the dress and lining together, wrong sides together and pinned at the top edge.

Spot the mistake?  Yup, I put the netting on the wrong side of the lining.  It's very soft net so I'm going to leave it as is.  If it causes me a problem I'll re do it at a later date.

 For the hem, I used the 2" strip I removed from the lining at the hem and stitched it to the skirt.  It's a light hankerchief lawn and perfect for a faced hem.  As you can see I finished and pinked the edge as I had black thread in the overlocker and couldn't face re-threading it.....


Corselette now pinned to the top edge



Just another view.  On the Ironing Board waiting for the next step.

The next step is to finish the top edge with a bias strip.  I cut mine 2.5cms longer than the measurement of the dress top edge and 10cms deep.

Just in case you didn't know what a bias piece looks like!!

 I then sew the corselette to the dress, using 1.3cm seam allowance and a small zigzag stitch, stretching the powernet slightly to fit.  Then I stitch the bias strip, and again I use a small zigzag stitch.  I then TRIM as much of the seam allowances as I can as there are a fair few layers at this stage!  Once that's done, give it a good press and then understitch.  Press again and you're done!  Just trim the ends of the bias so they come just past the dress closure and I prick stitch them down

Here's a view looking from the top, down into the dress.



And here it is on Vivienne, the corselette is done up (as far as I can on the stand)
and zip left open so you can see the insides.

 There's no picture of me wearing this dress at the moment, Ian's busy building a wall at the front of the house so I didn't want to disturb him whilst he's in the swing of things!  As soon as I get change I'll get some photos taken, in the meantime here it is on Vivienne. 

I will be making a little belt for this dress too - but I've had enough for today.

Enjoy the rest of your Bank Holiday weekend everyone in the UK!

Butterick B4443 - Part 3 and look Mum, my 5 mins of fame.....

Also entitled, is interfacing and interlining the bodice a tad too much?

Yesterday the dress came together.  If you had the luxury of sewing for one full day you could make this dress as it's so simple.  Sadly I don't so I have the lining to complete and the corselette to attach:

This is the interfaced and interlined bodice section, attached to the skirt.  Remember to trim all excess seam allowances anywhere a seam crosses to reduce bulk (yet to trim the seams in this picture)

 I wanted to show you how to ensure your zip doesn't move when inserting it.  It's one of those simple techniques, but makes a huge difference to the back seam by keeping the horizontal seams in one line! (and an excuse to show off my newly manicured nails....)

 See, by crossing the pins, the zip has no way of shifting as you stitch.  Oh, I forgot to mention I decided to go with a concealed zip because I don't want any more bulk in the back area (remember there will also be the corselette closure too)

Lastly, for this stage, I try the dress on inside out and pin the front to the back down both side seams.  As you can see, there was a little bit of tweaking on the bodice, but I expected this.

And Finally....

My edition of Sew Today arrived yesterday morning so  I made a nice cup of tea and settled down to read it in peace. 

 I nearly spilt my tea when I saw this on the second page....

It's me!!!  I'm deep in conversation with Sara Radford who makes boned bodices and corsets.  She was displaying a tutu, which I'm sure Sara won't mind me saying wasn't really a tutu.  It was her first attempt so to save costs she used dress net and gathered every layer.  If you look carefully the bodice is a pretty underbust corset - not something a ballerina could wear on stage, ha,ha! We were at Sewing For Pleasure at the NEC end of March (where I bought this dress fabric).  I don't remember having my picture taken at all.  Queue quietly for autographs please.......

And just because, here is a picture of Alison Smith - a lovely, lovely lady who runs and owns Fabulous Fabrics and Alison Victoria School of Sewing.  I have taken a few of Alison's courses and always enjoy every moment I spend with her.  Look at that beautiful red corset!

I hope you are having a good day.  It's Good Friday, so fish on the BBQ this evening...

Butterick B4443 Part 2 - inner construction

The powernet corselette is as complete as it can be at this stage.  I'm cross with myself because in my haste I realised I didn't have the poly boning that I wanted to use so have resorted to Rigeline.  It will be fine, just not my preferred type of boning.

Here's the stages following the pinning of the strips

 Press all seams open using your ham for the bust area

Fold the piece in half, wrong sides together and press the bottom edge

Prepare your Rigeline (if using this "lovely" product)  Some people balk at the sight of a flame in the sewing room, but I find this technique works well for me.  Once you have cut your pieces, round off the edges and hold close to the candle flame.  DO NOT put the Rigeline into the flame or else you'll end up with a gooey mess.  The heat will melt the edges and ensures it doesn't unravel, or those horrible spikes don't break through and get you!

Sew the Rigeline down using large a zigzag stitch ensuring you leave a gap of 2cm at the top and approx 1.5cm at the bottom.  Here you can see the wrong side which will be placed against the dress, and the right side which will be closest to the body.

Remember to use a ballpoint or stretch needle when you sew your powernet pieces together.  I also used mine to stitch down the Rigeline so that needle is now in the bin, it won't be any good for a new project.

That's it.  I won't be doing any more to this section until the dress is almost complete.  You can give the corselette its own closure and I prefer to use lingerie hook and eye tape but you can use a light weight open ended bodice zip (good luck with finding one, they aren't easy to get hold of), or you can attach the corselette closure directly to the dress and dress zip - Clear as mud?  I'll show you when I get there.

Enjoy your day, it's another lovely one here, the birds woke me up at 5 this morning.  I'm not complaining, more sewing time!

Butterick B4443 - a work in progress

This is a lovely pattern for summer dresses and doesn't call for much fabric.  I'm making view A and am using one of my NEC purchases from Fabulous Fabrics - I have just 1.4 meters.

When I read the instructions (a good habit I don't want to break no matter how simple the garment I am making!) I was so suprised....  This strapless dress has no inner structure or boning- can you believe it?!  Ok if you're young and have small bossoms under your chin and don't need any support, but not for a 40-something E cupped lady; Oh, perhaps that tells me something about who the pattern is designed for.

Anyway, I plowed on.  The instructions went back in the envelope and the dress will be made my way.  Whenever I make strapless dresses I always make up the front and back, but NEVER stitch the two together until the side seams have been pin-fitted which works very well for me, and I make a powernet corselette for inner structure (Unless it's a special occassion and then I might make a proper corset within the dress).

I'll show you my progress as the days go on, but here's where I am right now:

Skirt looks as though it's hanging strangely, but it is
 okay - I think it's just the heavy calico

Toile cut as a size 12 top, grading to a 14 at the waist and the skirt section is cut as a 14.  I added 1" seam allowances at the back because I'm not sure if  I will be using an invisible zip or a lapped zip - better to have too much fabric and trim it off than the other way around and also at the side seams - another habit I just can't break...

I kept my bra on as I will still wear a strapless bra with the finished dress.  Look mum, bust point is in the right place!



You can clearly see where the front has been sewn together and
how I've pinned the side seams.

 Pin the dress together down one side and to the zip point on the other - you need to be able to get into it!  Pinning yourself in isn't the easiest of tasks but with patience and practice it works out okay.  My zip will be down the back but I never put them into my toiles so the back is just stitched up.

Okay, so with a few tweeks I know it's going to fit just fine and I'm happy with the length too.  Now onto the inner structure.  I'm using flesh coloured powernet.  Ideally I'd like to use white but I didn't have any in my stash and as ever, I'm too impatient to wait for a delivery!


My personal corselette pattern.  This is the right hand side. 
Note the bottom edge of the pattern is on the fold.

Once you have cut out your pieces, you  have long thin shapes:


I've just pinned the right side together so you can see how it will look once stitched and folded:

I'm sure you've grasped the idea.  I will use a lingerie hook and eye closure and it will be boned with nylon boning (not horrid Rigeline) I won't use spirals in this instance.  As it's a summer dress it will need to go in the washing machine and I don't want to remove and re-stitch metal bones.

Just one last thing I will be interfacing the top section as my fabric has a slight crosswise stretch and I will be  interlining the top with white cotton too - just to ensure no one can see through it and to ensure the flesh powernet doesn't change the top section colouring.  The skirt will be lined with white bremsilk.



On a parting shot, I've been sewing "bits" over the last week.  Here's a jumper that went all bobbly after a couple of wears (SO annoying).  I felted it in the washing machine and made it into a cushion!

I hope the weather is as good for you as it has been for us here in Wiltshire.  We are experienceing unusually warm weather, lets pray this isn't our summer - remember the months of rain last year?

Enjoy the rest of your week

New Look 6023 + bad photography

I'm struggling to get going this morning so picked up a project I started late last month and vowed to finish it by end of day tomorrow.  It's New Look 6023 which is a new pattern (I think).  I like its clean lines and simplicity.

I decided to tissue fit first and cut a size 12 top and 16 (sigh) bottom, grading the waist section somewhere in between.  It worked out just fine but I would tweek the fit slightly for the next one (I will definately make this again).  I will lower the bust point by about 2cms and will make a narrow back alteration as I had to take in about 5cms each side at the nape of the neck.  This is how it looks so far:



My tummy looks very round in this photo, but not as much in true life -
oh well, nothing a pair of magic knickers or 7ibs weight loss won't cure.....





Look how much I had to take in at the neck!



The length is good on me and as this is a white matt duchess satin I interlined it with 200 thread count cotton for extra modesty.  I'm not sure if it's come out too well on the photos but the neck and waist sections are overlayed with a beautiful silver "cobweb" tulle that shimmers very slightly. 

When cutting out the pattern I did cut the short sleeves also to be in the tulle, but I think I'm going to leave it sleeveless.

Now, anyone got a summer party/wedding they can invite me to?  I think this one may be a little posh for the weekly shop at Asda.....

Enjoy the rest of your day (I MUST crack on with the new project tomorrow - more later)