Purple Coat Sizing Mysteries......

Skirt project on hold....  Skirt made up, but no black lining in my stash (unbelievable!!)

I have some time to myself this week so have made a start on the Purple Coat from my 2011 Sewing Plan for January / February.

I'm using this pattern

Vogue 8626 - view C (the grey one)

It's sized with bust options for A, B, C, and D cup.  Now here's the thing....  I wear a 32E bra, but as we know Pattern sizing and RTW sizing are quite different.  So before I made a start I double checked my measurements.  My chest measurement is 33" and my full bust is 35", which means I'm a B cup for commercial patterns - mmm?!  I did a tissue fit just to be doubly sure, and because I always err on the edge of caution I cut the C cup front pieces and a 12 everywhere else.  It looks good, albeit a tad too large at the centre front.

The finished measurement of the C cup coat at bust point is 40", so that gives me 5" of ease, whereas the B cup option has a finished measurement of 39".  The pattern is described as "close fitting" and I'm thinking I will stay with the C cup for this particular coat as my fabric is quiet heavy, although I may just double check the B cup fit too....  Decisions, decisions.... 

Just a parting note on the sleeves.  I shortened the arms, as I always do, and was pleased to note that although this is a one-piece sleeve it does have an elbow dart for shape which meant I had to shorten the sleeve in the right area.  For me it was the upper arm section where I needed to lose the length.

Sorry no pictures of the fabrics/linings/tissue fit as yet because the camera is on charge - I'll post them next time. I won't be tailoring this coat, although I will put in interfacing and a back-stay of course.